“On a Mish” #243 A Wet Night at Homer Hut (Part One). Upper Hollyford Valley / Gertrude Valley. Fiordland National Park. 19.12.2015. When the heavens open up and most go in to where it is dry. Recently other parts of Aotearoa have been bombarded with what would be considered a ‘good Fiordland storm’, but in a place famous for rain ‘good storms’ come and go on a regular basis. In Fiordland the expression ‘when it rains it pours’ is only talking about passing showers, but whilst helping my girlfriend out when she was a hut warden, I would find out what a wet night at Homer Hut was really like…
My fascination with the Darran Mountains began after I started guiding on the Routeburn Track. Along with seeing them from the Hollyford Face section of the track, I would also read different accounts from the past which just added fuel to my Darran Mountain desire fire. Along with the stunning scenery that is found in the range comes great difficulty navigating the deep valleys and steep cliffs that are a main feature of this rugged part of Fiordland National Park.
Humans are only ever passing visitors to this great place. Even though the range contains some of the most dramatic landscapes on the planet, most see them from their car on the Milford Road, or they stay in the cosy confinement of the area’s only hut. There have been attempts at creating accommodation in other places in the range, but Mother Nature hasn’t approved the construction and abruptly removed it from the face of the earth with avalanches. (Along with the destruction caused by heavy rain there is also the risk of avalanches during the colder months.)
Nestled amongst a small patch of beech trees in the upper reaches of the Hollyford Valley is the NZAC’s Homer Hut (New Zealand Alpine Club). Built over several years and then opened in 1965, the hut has been the base to many as they explore the incredible surroundings. Over recent years it has become so popular that bookings are required during summer, and at the height of the climbing season the hut is blocked for bookings unless you are a NZAC Member.
The first time I stayed at the hut was in 2015 when I climbed Mt McPherson. The chatter with fellow steep place explorers was very motivating and enjoyable and is a big draw card, along with soaking in the history-drenched interior. Some of the greatest climbs in New Zealand’s bygone times have begun from this very hut.
After signing up with the NZAC my girlfriend at the time saw that there were opportunities to volunteer as Warden for Homer Hut. The role was for five days and, as the words were coming out of her mouth, I agreed to join her to help I did not want to miss out on the opportunity to spend more than a single night at the hut. We double checked to see if it was all good for me to stay with her, and after hearing it was ok a grin began to cement itself onto my face.
For the first time we were heading into the Darran Mountains, and it didn’t matter what the weather forecast was, or at least that’s what we thought at the time…
