A Taste of the Whiskey (Part One) – Whiskey Trail Camp

“On a Mish” #52 A Taste of the Whiskey – Part One. Whiskey Trail Camp. Livingstone Mountains. Fiordland National Park. 5.8.2018. You would think that walking a track again and again would dull the wilderness senses and the place would lose its charm. Fortunately, no matter how many times you walk the Routeburn Track it will never lose its jaw dropping spectacular-ness. Starting a Routeburn Track adventure by travelling west to east from The Divide is arguably the best way to attack the track and is the way taken by Ultimate Hikes (the sole guided walking company on the track)…

The remote location of the start means a drive is required – and the trip from Te Anau past the last of the farmlands and then into Fiordland National Park is a real treat even before starting the hike. The Divide car park is usually packed with both day and multi-day hikers, and can give a false impression of how busy the track actually is overall. Once away from the carpark things tend to get a lot more quiet. The wide, and extremely well maintained, track makes its way through sub alpine forest and bush as it climbs towards the Howden Hut(RIP) / Key Summit turnoff. I highly recommend a visit to Key Summit, as the view from the top is world class, and will be remembered long after the aches in your legs have gone. Many times as a guide or just ‘on a mish’ I have joined the masses of stunned visitors marveling at the incredible sights to behold, and many times I have looked at the ridge beyond Key Summit continuing south and envisioned a camping trip high on the ridge. After years of talking about it, finally the stars aligned and at last I had an opportunity to go on a mish. Oh, and the fact that it was August in Aotearoa wasn’t going to stop me. I decided to spend two nights camping on the ridge (more epicness), and on the middle day go for a wander south towards Peak 1543m. The forecast was for possible light rain on the 2nd day, so most would just decide to stay out of the weather at home.

The stunning view from Key Summit

but… as per usual I really needed a camping fix and a chill in the air wasn’t going to stop me. I made sure I packed extra arctic weather warm clothing with my camping gear, and then headed along the Milford Road to The Divide car park. I arrived at the car park at about 2pm to the chaotic sight of hundreds of rental cars, SUVs and camper vans parked on top of each other in a mass of motorised mayhem. I eventually found an empty park, and then quickly raced towards the start of the Routeburn Track to escape the crowds and carbon monoxide. Back on the track again, and the wander through the greens of Fiordland’s garden hit me like it was my first visit to the location. I followed the familiar steps of the easy track as it zigzags its way up to the magical views at Key Summit. Above the famous viewing area I bid farewell to humanity for a while and then continued south along the ridge for about an hour to an epic campsite beside a large tarn. I’m a fan of mid winter in Fiordland, so I hope I brought enough clothes…

New Zealand. What a place to explore!

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