“On a Mish” #171 The Throne Room of the Gods (Part Two). Earnslaw Burn. Mt Aspiring National Park. 11.7.2010. There are some places in Aotearoa that sit in clear view for most from a distance but are rarely seen up close. Aoraki Mt Cook is a good example as many marvel at its glistening glaciers from the valleys below, it is only a select few that make the journey to its base. For a long time Pikirakatahi Mt Earnslaw was the same, with various visitors visiting the vistas viewed at the top of Lake Wakatipu. Pikirakatahi from the pavement wasn’t enough for me so after passing by the valley at the base of the peak tons of times as a guide after a busy season on the Routeburn Track I decided it was time to hike to the place some call the ‘Throne Room of the Gods’…
The Earnslaw Massive sits at the southern end of the Forbes Range and along with the two main summits there are to massive spurs that extend towards Wakatipu ending at a place called Paradise. The narrow corridor in the middle is called the Earnslaw Burn, and it leads to an incredible ice clad cirque. Below this great u-shaped glacier is a flat area that screams out invitation to all but only a few take up the opportunity. If you are looking for a big bang overnight mish near Queenstown, then a hike up the Earnslaw Burn could be your perfect night out.
The bitter conditions transformed most liquid into frozen sculptures and statues that made it seem as if time had stopped in the most shaded regions of the valley. The coolest of coolness was going to be seen to start with, however the forecast was about was away many of the art pieces before another wintery blast created new ones. The difference between the morning and afternoon was vast and a real display of what the weather can do in the mountains of Aotearoa.
Our late-ish start and need to do something the next evening meant we could get as far up the valley as we wanted, however what we were seeing pleased us and the clouds were starting to consume any views of anything above about 2000 metres.
Near the top of the valley is a rock bivouac and after visiting this we decided we had gone far enough, and it was time to set up camp. From our spot we could see glimpses of the tangle of glaciers that make up the south face. We were now in the Throne Room of the Gods and there was a pleasant peace to the place. With that said every now and then the peace would be broken by the sound of big blocks of ice breaking off the face and smashing their way to their demise at the base of the mountain.
We enjoyed our dinner and then it was time to retreat to the warmth of our sleeping bags. It was strange to think that we were the only ones in such a grand place so close to the mayhem that is Queenstown. The only mayhem found here was when the odd avalanche came crashing down, and we were staying away from that like we were staying away from Queenstown for a short while.
Early-ish the next morning we were up and off as we didn’t want to get wet or have any issues with the river crossing at the end / start of the track. Now with our backs to the Throne Room, we trekked our way towards Lake Wakatipu. It is quite motivating matching towards a place that is paradise and is also literally called Paradise! This area is magic, and it is no wonder that so many movies have been made in this stunning location.
Our hike went by without issue (apart from our feet not looking forward to fording the Earnslaw Burn at the very end of the trek!), and within a couple of hours we had gone from being alone at the top of the valley, to closing in on the paddocks and buildings of Paradise Station. The mish was a good mix of easy and epic, and I am glad that more people are doing this mish these days as it seemed so wrong for it to go unseen. If you are in the Queenstown area and can transport yourself to Paradise at the top of Lake Wakatipu, then I highly recommend a wander to the Throne Room of the Gods.
