“On a Mish” #11 Summer Snow (Part Two). East Face of Ocean Peak. Mt Aspiring National Park. 16.1.2012. There were a few times when guiding on the Routeburn Track that we watched the weather gods align the clouds and it looked like snow would be seen on the track. It didn’t happen very often, but when it did it was epic. Many dream of snowy mountains but unless travelling in winter, only a few have their dreams turn to reality. While experiencing summer snow can be thrilling, it wasn’t exactly what I was expecting when I went and climbed Ocean Peak via the Routebrun Track…
Seeing snow down to the treeline was a surprise, but as a snow lover I relished the opportunity to go play in nature’s icing sugar. I first had some ground to cover and the prospect of snow put an extra spring in my step.
On the way to the base of the east face I stopped in at Routeburn Fall Lodge and this gave me a chance to tell the managers what I was up to and when I planned to come back down. Having an extra lifeline so close to the mountain I was going to climb was very reassuring. After a catch up coffee I was off into the upper basin, and with the fresh snow the place was looking very good!
There are many ways to get to the top of the mountain and I had always dreamed of climbing Ocean Peak via a step gully that leads to the north ridge. Every time I stopped to fill water bottles at Ocean Peak Creek I gazed up at the massive crack and wondered if it could be climbed? I left the track near the creek and crept my way up to the base of the gully only to see that it was choked with snow and, if I wanted to stay in the world of the living, then it needed to be avoided.
I wasn’t going to give up on my mish, however to get to another viable way up I had to sidle across a patch of alpine bush that featured nearly every spiky plant found in the area, and by the time I got onto easier ground my knees looked a little worse for wear.
Even before leaving I had planned out a few scenarios, and with my first plan off limits I resorted to plan B. My alternative route was via the steps of the basin above Ocean Peak Creek. Even before I had to think about a way through the bluffs that act as the giant steps I spotted a lone Chamois and I followed its tracks through the steps to a point where I could see a way onto the upper ridge of the peak.
Everything was going so well and the summer snow wasn’t providing me with any issues so far. Oh how quickly everything can change when on a mish in the mountains….
