“On a Mish” #444 Back to the Big Trees. Big Totara Reserve. Dean Forest (Southland). 4.12.2025. Aotearoa New Zealand is a little country with many very big things. We have big mountains, lakes and rivers, and in some parts of our forests we have very big trees. Unfortunately, many of the giants were chopped down for their timber back before it was illegal to harvest native wood, and this means finding the biggest trees can be a bit of a mish. Luckily, I am only a drive away from Dean Forest where you can find a few massive Totara trees that are ginormous. So, when the outdoors cravings called and a spot out of the wind was needed so we could go camping, then it was back to the big trees in Dean Forest…
My dog Georgie’s first outdoor adventure was in Dean Forest. She had just had her final shots and was ready to tackle the outside world, so it was time for her to go on her first camping mission. Weather wise she didn’t have the best first time out, but that didn’t damper her enthusiasm one bit! Nowadays she is a veteran of the camping scene and has many missions under her belt, and if the camping gear is getting prepared, she knows and adventure is just around the corner.
My friend Rob’s time in Nz was coming to an end and we wanted a final outing to celebrate, along with servicing the need to go out on a mish every couple of weeks. At first, we were going to head to the Mavora Lakes, a place we are both very familiar with. However, the weather had other ideas and strong wind and the chance of rain meant Mavora wasn’t an option. Plan B was to head to the remote Dean Forest (near Lake Hauroko), and camp near the Big Totara Walk.
The beginning of our drive south began with showers which we hoped would pass-by before we arrived at the forest. Georgie and I were excited about heading back to the big trees however, getting soaked by rain wasn’t part of the plan. The last time we were here it rained heavily, and although we were dry under a tarp in the trees, we rather have no rain on this visit.
Light rain was falling when we arrived, so this delayed us getting our camp set up. Luckily, we were only a short stroll from the Big Totara Walk so this filled in the time perfectly while we waited for the rain to stop. Talk about a distraction! Seeing a tree that is estimated to be around 1000 years old and has an eight-metre girth is rare and spectacular sight to behold. The walk was a perfect way to fill in the time and by the time we finished the rain had also run its course.
Back at camp we got a little restless, so we went for a small mish to the end of the road / track that takes you to the Big Totara Walk. It didn’t take long before we reached a point where it petered out, but to our surprise we found a mystery track which led off into the forest. We followed this well-beaten and lightly marked track until daylight began to fade, so where it goes is still a mystery. After getting back to camp we enjoyed a night by the campsite fire as the wind began to ramp up.
During the night the wind howled. Sleeping was challenging at times due to the noise of trees swaying and groaning with each gust, but we were safe and sound, sheltered amongst the trees of Dean Forest. An early-ish start was needed as I had to get back to Te Anau for work, and a little reward for our early start was seeing some deer wandering through the woods.
Overall, the mish was a great success with a unique and giant highlight being the massive Halls Totara which still boggle the mind with their incredible mass. Dean Forest might be a little bit out of the way however, a trip back to the big trees is something I’d do again and if you haven’t been there before then be prepared to be blown away by some of Nz’s biggest trees!
