“On a Mish” #439 Wet Feet in Fiordland (Part Two). Chasm to West Cleddau Valley. Fiordland National Park. Southland. 10.8.2025. Having wet feet is a situation some people seem to think is about as bad a death. I have watched as some take big risks just to avoid a puddle, and in some cases, they are already soaked to the bone anyway! River-crossings and water in general is just part of the scenery in Fiordland, and if you go off-track there then getting damp boots is inevitable. When it is all said and done having wet feet in Fiordland is as common as the stunning beauty that is found all over New Zealand’s biggest national park…
The benefits of travelling on the Milford Road in winter is the lack of people. Places like Eglinton Flats are usually teeming with visitors each getting their own taste of this very special places. However, during the winter months the road goes very quiet and sometimes you can drive a considerable distance before you see another vehicle. Having one of the best roads in the world to yourself is something so ‘New Zealand – remote, wild & untouched’ and an experience that reinforces why I bought a house in Te Anau.
After lapping up the scenery on the drive in I arrived at ‘The Chasm’ and easily found a spot in the near empty car park. Immediately I was joined by a little green friend who was very interested with what I was up to! Back in 2020 this area (along with much of North Fiordland) was pummelled by an incredible storm which damaged kilometres of track, along with other structures like bridges and even an entire hut (R.I.P Howden Hut) in one circumstance! Sadly, the damage remains in some places and ‘The Chasm’ is one of these places. And just like my very own broken bits, it is going to take time to fix.
Before I headed into the bush with my pack, I wanted to get an idea of what the top of ‘The Chasm’ track was like. Pre-storm the guidebook says to head up the well-formed track, cross over the Cleddau River, and then leave the track at the top bridge to continue further up the valley. Unfortunately, I discovered that this bridge had been washed away, and I had to come up with a better plan. Fortunately, I noticed a rough trail heading into the forest near where the bridges used to be and I hoped that this would get me up and around the holes and crevasses of The Chasm.
I returned to my car just as a large group of people showed up. I looked like a fish out of water compared to anyone else since I was the only one with a full camping pack and hiking attire. Thankfully I managed to sneak up and off the track surprisingly without anyone seeing me and inspecting where I had disappeared to. I have had the odd occasion when I have begun a hike and had a few unsuspecting tourists follow me into an environment they really weren’t prepared for.
After climbing over a small heavily bushed knoll, I remerged at the river and had to think about what to do next. I could see a good spot to pitch my tent on a flat between the West and South Branches of the Cleddau but between myself and it was the cool waters of the mighty Cleddau River. Looks like I’m going to have wet feet during my adventure in Fiordland, something I should have expected!
