“On a Mish” #307 James Craig’s Dream (Part Two). Port Craig Lodge / Village. Fiordland National Park. 23.4.2015. James Craig was the driving force behind the ongoings at the sawmill that would bear his name. Along with Daniel Reese, former New Zealand Cricket Player, James Craig would change a small part of the Fiordland Forest forever. The mill the men had built is now part of Southland’s history, but the site of operations and massive viaducts still remain and are now part of the South Coast / Humpridge Track, and make the wander along the coast even more interesting…
While most hike up to Okaka Lodge located high on the Hump Ridge, some take the easy bay way to Port Craig. Starting at Blue Cliffs Beach the trail follows the sand to the Hump Burn where the track then enters the Fiordland Forest. The hike along the coast is part of the Department of Conservation’s longest track and is also a trail soaked in ancient Māori history. Before the sawmill the area saw hundreds of years of Māori activity due to Te Waewae Bay being the last sheltered spot before taking on the challenge of the Fiordland Coastline. These days the coastline is just as dangerous, and it really makes you think about how incredibly brave the Māori who tackled the coastline journey really were.
After entering the forest at the Hump Burn creeks are crossed and seaside views are seen. At Pipi Tuaraki Stream you will come across the turn-off to Okaka Lodge, and you can either climb the near 1000 metre journey to the Castles in the Sky or continue along the coast to Port Craig. Either option is awesome, however the trek along the coast is a little bit easier on the legs!
Just past the Okaka turn-off a couple of pristine beaches are crossed, each having its own charm and unique views. Near O Hoka (or Breakneck) Stream there is an option that is not always available and one that has left a few with wet boots. The ‘Te Whata Trail’ is one that travels along a rocky beach at low tide. If timed right a small amount of time can be shaved off the journey to or from Port Craig, and just like the other beaches, unique views back over Te Waewae Bay. But many have misjudged the tides and ended up in Te Waewae Bay!
With my hip and back the way they are as I write this mish, I know a hike up to Okaka Lodge is off the cards (for now…), but this doesn’t mean I can’t participate in a Humpridge Track adventure. Some give the Hump Ridge a miss and just take on the coastline track.
Whether it be via the ridge or coast those who hike to Port Craig will have the option of continuing along the coast, crossing (or recrossing) the viaducts, and ending up at the very remote Wairaurahiri River. Once at the river there is a rather exciting option to get back to civilisation…
