“On a Mish’ #409 Potential Danger (Part Two). Gertrude Saddle. Fiordland National Park. 18.4.2014. I once went up Gertrude Saddle with some of the bros just after heavy rain. Immediately we faced problems in the form of flooding, but that would be the least of our worries as we pushed on into the upper reaches of the track. The potential danger is normally pretty high in the Darran Mountains, but with the added factor of running water across the rock slabs near Gertrude Saddle the danger is at maxed out. A few people have met their fate attempting to get up to the saddle either after or during rain, so it is highly recommended you only trek the trail when the place is dry…
The scars of rain line the cliffs of Fiordland. Very few plants grow here and there have been many buildings (along with large sections of the Milford and Hollyford Road’s) that have been smashed away by either rushing water or rockfall. And as if that isn’t enough, there is also a massive avalanche risk here during the winter. It is that harshness that I love and respect, so I really appreciate the times Ata Whenua (Fiordland) lets my friends and I wander amongst its unrivalled grandeur.
We got to the head of the valley and then began to climb towards a tumbling tower of water tipping out of Black Lake. To get to where the water comes from you must complete the crux of the mish up to the saddle. It is here where you must cross the rock slabs that have claimed lives, as well as hauling yourself up sections so steep they require the assistance of a cable.
Once above Black Lake the going gets easier, and after jumping from rock to rock like a Rockwren we were on top of the saddle looking at the dark waters of a distance Piopiotahi Milford Sound. We decided to head some of the way up Barrier Knob(1879m) before stopping for lunch. The extra climb above the saddle gave us an awesome view down into the Gulliver Valley which is where they found William Quills body after he went missing trying to find a way down. He unfortunately managed to cross the line between bold and brave, and over-ambitious.
After a feed we began our wander back down. The clouds had got even darker, and the smell of rain was in the air. At one point while descending the rocks below Barrier Knob(1879m) we watched a helicopter zoom over the saddle below us. A tell-tale sign of a good mish is when you are above machines made to fly!
By the time we got back down to the valley floor the upper peaks had been swallowed by cloud and the first spots of rain were starting to fall. With each drop the risk of potential danger grew and it was awesome we were finishing our mish instead of starting it like some of the people we passed. We chatted to a few couples and warned them about the dangers of the track when wet. Some listened, some didn’t, but at least these days the track is lined with signs warning people about the risks found in the Gertrude Valley.
Nowadays if anyone asks, “which are the best hiking tracks to do from the Milford Road?” I always put the Gertrude Saddle Track and Lake Marian Track at the top of any list. But while telling people about the jaw-dropping scenery I also mention the risk of potential danger and to never attempt the Gertrude Saddle Track either during or just after rainfall!
